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French bistro fare is “food for the people” — comforting, hearty and rustic — without the pomp and circumstance (or the dazzling Michelin stars) attributed to many formal French restaurants. Many restaurants have tried their hands at these classics dishes (steak frites, cassoulet, duck confit, salad Niçoise) only to fail miserably. Why? Because, casual or fancy, good food needs good ingredients and good technique — a very French idea, indeed.
This is why Sardine, on a recent Saturday night, was packed to the gills (wink, wink).
Sardine has one of the greatest bars in the city. Large and expansive in glistening stainless steel, with bartenders that know the wine and food they serve, it is my favorite place to eat at this airy and spacious restaurant. Scoring the last two open spots at the bar on this particular Saturday evening (how lucky!), my husband and I sat with tummies grumbling in anticipation over the meal to come.
I must say that being a wine lover and pregnant at Sardine is a test of wills. Their wine list is wonderful and well-rounded — the French classics are well-represented, but the stellar Oregon and Washington vintages really seal the deal. With an Oregon Pinot Noir for my husband and a cranberry juice for me (at least it’s red!), our bartender ran through the evening’s specials, all which sounded delicious.
We both settled on the soup du jour (a mushroom puree) to start. I selected the arctic char (a pink-fleshed fish with a flavor and texture that’s a cross between trout and salmon) with white bean pistou for dinner, with my husband opting for the hearty cassoulet.
The soup was delicious; jammed packed with earthy mushroom flavors, both fresh and dried. The texture was a little rough though. I think it would have been sublime it if had been run through a chinois or sieve.
The arctic char was perfectly cooked; its salmon-pink flesh still moist with the outer edges expertly browned and crisp. The white beans and herbaceous pistou counterbalanced each other well. The cassoulet was a gorgeous mound of beans, slow-cooked pork, sausage and a duck confit leg, but was so hot that I was done with my meal before my husband could eat his without the risk of third-degree burns. Note to kitchen: maybe let these sit outside of the oven for a while before serving them.
Speaking of hot: the social scene was definitely the see-and-be-seen kind. The restaurant was literally buzzing with energy. But, when the food is good, the foodies of Madison will come.
Sardine
617 Williamson Street
Madison, WI 53703
608.441.1600
info@sardinemadison.com
Hours:
Tuesday –Thursday: 5:00 - 10:00 p.m.
Friday & Saturday: 5:00 - 11:00 p.m.
Sunday: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Brunch 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Closed Mondays